An Unexpected Dive into Khon Kaen's Art and Music Scene

On Saturday night, I found myself in a small, intimate art gallery in Khon Kaen after hours, sipping wine and speaking with the most incredible artists and creators from all throughout Thailand and Laos. They were painters, museum curators, film critics, and university professors from different backgrounds and expertises but had all traveled there because of their shared passion for art. I had no idea that the venue existed just a few hours before, and how I ended up there started in a bookstore earlier that same day. 

I took a trip to Khon Kaen this weekend, and on Saturday afternoon, I went to a small bookstore, where I was warmly welcomed in by the store owner and his two cats. As I perused the small English selections and picked out my book of choice, the owner began conversing with me. He seemed excited that I was an English speaker and spoke mostly English to me, all the while profusely apologizing for his lack of proficiency. It’s funny how when I walk into someone else’s store as a guest in Thailand, they so often make the effort to speak my native language and will even apologize for their imperfect speech. It seems ironic; I’m the guest here, so shouldn’t I be the one expected to make the effort to speak their native tongue? It’s interesting to think about how you would never run into this type of situation in America; if someone who struggles with English enters any store, they are expected to communicate in their broken English. Anyway, quick reflection on language and privilege aside, the owner began telling me about his aspirations of expanding his book store to a cafe and to start selling a few more things. He unlocked a side door and showed me another room with little souvenirs and trinkets– an old customer of his decided to open up her own little store connected to his. He began sharing his recommendations around Khon Kaen, and as I frantically jotted down recommendation after recommendation, he suddenly exclaimed, “there is a show happening tonight!” He proceeded to tell me about Maielie, an art gallery that hosts various exhibitions and performances. The show was starting in an hour, and he insisted that I couldn’t miss it. Despite having just entered his bookstore and barely beginning to read, I was suddenly being ushered out the door with hurried phrases of "enjoy the show!" and "come back another time!“

Wild Dog Bookstore in Khon Kaen

I arrived to Maielie bit late, and the small gallery space was already packed with around 30 people. Standing in the back, I could barely make out what was being said in the front. After a brief round of what I assumed were introductions, sliding doors in the back opened, and the audience members filed through to see the two performers laying motionless on the floor. Once everyone made their way inside and spread around the room, the show began. I think performances like these capture sentiments and ideas that are beyond language, so I won’t strip the performance of its beauty by trying to fit it within the constraints my words. I will say that I witnessed what was probably the strangest, most unique performance I have ever seen.

The opening scene

As the audience began to disperse after the end of the performance, one of them, a man maybe in his late 50s or early 60s, began walking around, seeming to muse over the artwork. Although he had been watching the performance along with the audience the entire night, there was this aura of authority around him, not in a self-righteous way, but in a quiet manner that convinced me that he wasn’t just an audience member. I think it was the way he held eye contact with the people around him, smiling warmly in a way that seemed to say, “welcome to the show.” Whatever it was intrigued me, and I approached him, asking if he could speak English. When he responded affirmatively, I asked if he was associated with this production. He paused with a smile and replied, “Ah, how do I put it? I’m the founder of this space.” I learned about his background, how he grew up in Connecticut, half American and half Thai, and how he now has a museum in Chiang Mai and this art gallery in Khon Kaen. He told me about his visions and sources of inspiration in Isan asked about my background as well, familiar with the Fulbright program and the places where I grew up. There were several people talking quietly around us, seeming to want their turn to speak with him as well. He deftly introduced me to a nearby artist, sharing that she had also been a Fulbright recipient and was quickly swept away in conversation. I was soon introduced to another group of artists, and then suddenly, I was getting introduced by and to everyone. 

I felt like I was in a dance, whirling around the room, spending some time getting to know one artist before spinning off to talk to another. I was inquiring with question after question, eager to uncover each life story in the time we had before the dance would resume again. I learned so much about the artists and the themes of their artwork, so much steeped in the rich history and culture of Isan. Many of their works centered around how the U.S. affected development in the Northeast. During the Cold War era, the U.S. set up military bases throughout the region and began to spread Western ideals in an effort to prevent the spread of communism. One of the artists who leads both a career creating art and another running his family’s aluminum factory shared one of his projects with me, Slither. He had installed three metal and mirror panels at the site of one of the old U.S. military bases in his hometown, Udon Thani. On each of the large sheets, he carved sound waves from interviews he had conducted, voices sharing their experiences growing up amid the war. One of the panels is his mother’s voice sharing her story. His work can be found on his website. I also met the co-founders of KultX, a gallery space showcasing works from various artists. One of the co-founders explained his vision of connecting artists from around the Mekong River– artists from Thailand, Laos, Cambodia, Myanmar and China. He was interested in incorporating new perspectives of art into Thailand, with some heavy critiques on the current state of art. 

The other co-founder of KultX showing me his NorCal cap

The room wasn’t confined to the boundaries of fine arts; I spoke to a master's student pursuing a career as a doctor, with ties to the artistic community in Khon Kaen through writing film critiques. There were definitely musicians in the crowd as well. At one point, I was sitting next to an Australian DJ who had moved to Thailand, discussing the ways jazz varies across the country. The previous king was a big fan of jazz, as he was a composer himself, and he left a tremendous impact on the jazz styles in Thailand.

I've been pretty fascinated by the jazz scene here; there are several restaurants and bars throughout Khon Kaen (and throughout Thailand in general) with live jazz music every night. Some play jazz renditions of big hits throughout the decades, and some are a lot more experimental in style. I’m by no means a jazz connoisseur, but it’s impossible not to become mesmerized by the performers pouring their heart and soul into the music. Hidden Town is arguably the most popular jazz bar in Khon Kaen, and my new favorite jazz musician is the electric guitarist there. His style and interpretations bring the music to life, and his ever-changing facial expressions tell a theatrical narrative along with each piece. But like the live performance at Maielie, there’s really no way to fully capture the jazz performances with words– you have to go experience it for yourself.

Pixel Bar & Gallery and Hidden Town in Khon Kaen

This weekend was definitely an incredible dive into the artistic side of Thailand. I initially came to Thailand interested in several aspects of the culture: the sports, the nature, the food, and the language, but I never really expected to be pulled into the art and music scene. I also don’t know if there is any other country where I could accidentally stumble upon a tight-knit community, clueless but curious about their work, and instantly be welcomed in with open arms. My list of places to go and things to see in Khon Kaen has only been growing, and I definitely plan on making a return visit soon. After uncovering this eccentric art and music scene in Khon Kaen, I’m also curious to explore what else lies in all the other provinces across Thailand if I just make the effort to look.